Final greetings from San Jose, Costa Rica, having just returned from a four-day trip to Havana and Panama City. (Can’t believe I missed Castro’s retirement by 26 hours!!) Two more days and I’m leaving the ‘hot’ for the ‘cold’, and straight into the Arctic blast of New York - 30 degrees the difference. That’s something to look forward to as I’m sick of Central America. I think three weeks is long enough in this part of the world and I can’t understand how people can do a year’s long backpacking trip around this region: don’t they get sick of the people? The undrinkable water? That you can’t throw toilet paper down the toilet even in some nice hotels? Yes, people here are nice and so on, but they can also be petulant, ill-disciplined and impatient. Honestly, I thought Chinese people were bad on planes with their bossing around, these Latinos though……
Anyway, good time to introduce you to E and Z, a middle-aged Cuban lesbian couple whom I befriended at an awful Chinese restaurant in Havana six hours before I wrote the e-mail in which I wanted Castro dead. He might have retired but will things change? One of you kindly wrote back saying that I was ‘walking in dangerous territories’ with that wish. I know some of you love Fidel and all the virtues that socialism and communism bring, and blame the US trade embargo for all the problems. However, you only need to spend one day in Havana to think otherwise. I’d had exactly 24 hours to make up my mind about Fidel before meeting those two ladies by chance, (the waiter tried to rip me off by short-changing me by $13 and E shouted at him on my behalf) and by then, I’d already concluded that Havana was some sick joke that was particularly cruel on the poor. Unlike other countries that I’d visited in the region, you can be poor - but at least you can buy simple things like toilet paper easily and at an affordable price. In Cuba, rich or poor, if they’ve run out, then they’ve run out, and is often the case not just with toilet paper, but just about everything. You see, nothing seems to work in Havana, and probably the rest of Cuba, too. I’m sure that until he’s really, really dead, nothing will change. The city’s beautiful, with lovely architecture and exquisite squares but you can only enjoy them during the day because Cuba has an energy shortage which means many roads and buildings are not lit up at night. Some street lamps only come on ten minutes after sunset, which makes the city a bit too dangerous as you could hardly see a thing - you could fall into a pothole or get mugged or get run over by a motorbike.
Cubans are said to be friendly, but I thought they were doing their utmost to rip me and other tourists off because they are so poor - expecting you to tip them, take them out for drinks or just give them stuff. But can you blame them? These people have to queue for everything - money, sweets, browsing at shoes, buses; their hands clutching these little grey ration books, trying to buy essential things that they really can’t afford. I guess the rate of inflation is low but with so little supply, daily lives become a chore. For example, a small carton of milk costs US$4 - an outrageous price no matter how rich you are. There’s no butter, and olive oil is $16 a bottle. Then, you are only allowed chicken or eggs on alternate days, and yogurts every four days. If authorities find out you’d obtained beef illegally, they can throw you in jail for 25 years (E said it’s better to kill a person), whilst pharmacies and medical care - something which Cuba is famous for worldwide - have empty shelves (see photos) or have doctors opting to take out a taxi license or become hotel porters as they can earn ten times more a month from tourists’ tips than for working in hospitals.
That’s why all my American clients in Costa Rica advised me to bring ’soaps, hotel shampoos, toilet papers and chocolate’ for the locals. So I did - for my host family (many open up their houses for foreigners to stay in…just another way to make money) but all they asked was whether I had any medication. Like many of you, I thought the Cuban health service was world-class. But I could see it with my own eyes - it is diabolical. I eventually gave half my paracetamols to the family, and half to E and Z. E’s contact smuggled a whole box of Cohiba cigars for me, so in return, I bought her juices, cooking oil, apples and eggs at a convenience store for foreigners - items which we wouldn’t think twice about buying on any day of the year, yet, they fret and worry about how to budget for them on a daily basis. I don’t know how all these sit with you, but hopelessness is the only way I can describe it. And I’m sorry if you disagree on what I said about Castro, and for sure, you can blame the US trade embargo for this but don’t forget, the US is very pragmatic/sneaky in getting what it wants. If it wants to do shady business with a shady regime, no one will rebuff them. For sure America would want Cuba to do well but Castro refuses to budge an inch, and as a result, everyone else suffers. Now that he’s retired, hopefully that will come soon.