Greetings from Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina, having trundled across Bulgaria, Serbia and Sarajevo from Central Turkey by numerous trains, coaches, and one taxi. The final stop is due to be Budapest at the weekend, and between now and then, some bits of Croatia and a tiny bit of Slovakia must also be negotiated before a neat little seven-hour transit chez Benedict XVI in Rome.
First of all though, may we just take a brief moment to say to those of you currently fasting for Ramadan that you have our full and utmost respect. We have no idea how anyone even managed to fast during the shorter days of winter, let alone 15 hours of daylight at the height of the summer! We arrived first in Konya, and then Bursa in Central Turkey on the eve of Ramdan a couple of weeks ago - two of the most conservative Muslim cities around, and immediately struggled on a full stomach in the blazing sun and intense heat. To think that so many around us survived on absolutely nothing until sunset - not even water - it is a pretty mind blowing experience, especially when watching families breaking fast en masse outside the Blue Mosque in Istanbul at precisely 7.58pm. In fact, we would go as far as to say that Turkey has now become Bleungberg’s favourite country in the world, ahead of Japan and Iran. This was our third time there, and having now visited parts of the east, south, central, Northern Cyprus and, of course, Istanbul, Turkey is simply awesome on so many levels. We still rather dislike Istanbul, however, as it’s expensive, scammy and overrun with tourists. The rest of the country though is brilliant… spectacular scenery, interesting people, wonderful cultural sites, nice beaches and lovely mosques. We also find it quite civilised, safe, cheap, and getting around from city to city is a complete doodle. There is still a question mark hanging over Turkish food - too much lamb and not enough chicken or veggie options but after three tries, we think we might have finally found ways of steering clear of anything out of a sheep.
So, Turkey was outstanding, whilst the police-state of Bulgaria and Serbia served up some wonderful dishes but were largely unexciting (Belgrade is terrific if you go in a group whilst Sofia can be skipped and Veliko Tarnovo is recommended instead). Occasionally however, you come across a nugget of a place which is so profound and leaves quite an impression on you. For us, that place was Sarajevo, just up the road here in B&H. Both Sarajevo and Mostar had been on our wishlist for some time, but not even in our wildest dreams could we have imagined them to be so damn interesting and brilliant. There is simply no other place in Europe quite like Sarajevo - bombed into submission during a brutal four-year siege by the Serbs a little over a decade ago, yet, it soldiered on gamely and resiliently against all the odds. Along with a wealth of history and architectural wonders (Ottoman bazaar, beautiful mosques, Austro-Hungarian buildings, Communist offices and tower blocks), a fantastic nightlife, a wonderful Olympic legacy, a hospitable people and some glorious food, we are quite happy to declare this our favourite city in the whole of Europe.
To those of us who like history - particularly gutwreching ones - Sarajevo is a living museum and monument to the brutality of modern warfare and human suffering: bombed out buildings, bullet holes everywhere, derelict sites, half-hanging houses, swathes of graveyards and literally hills of cemeteries all over the place. Mostar - whose famous bridge was destroyed by those conniving Croats - is similar but on a lesser scale, but no less compelling or powerful. Everywhere you go or look, there are reminders of a very recent, brutal and dreadful war, and it is an odd feeling to be surrounded by people who are cheerfully boozing or just having a good time, yet, not so long ago, were running for their lives or surviving on rations. We had hoped to visit Gallipoli during the same trip, and even Auschwitz at the end of it. Time constraints meant that neither is possible, and we’re glad about that. …three wars in one trip would have been too much…
So, if you can, do give Sarajevo some consideration - you will not be disappointed. If the history side gets too heavy, there is always the cheap booze and cheap skiing to keep you occupied!