
Bleungberg arrived here a fortnight ago, and will remain here indefinitely. We’ve rented an office, and at the moment, Cairo is rather ‘nice’ – warm during the day, cold at night and very chilly indoors all day. And no sign of cockroaches (or geckoes) yet – thankfully – but they WILL come. (By the way, cats are really scrawny here, and plenty of dead ones around on the streets, too.)
Anyway, this is our first time in Cairo, and we decided to move here upon others’ recommendations, our own intuition and past experiences in the Middle East, and the prospect of getting some random jobs/challenges/studies. So far, it’s been fine, and Cairo is totally unique – it feels like a city on the brink, and looks like one giant mess; a catastrophe on an epic scale. When we saw the TV pictures from Haiti last week, we looked out of my window and thought, “it looks the same!”…Cairo’s like a bombsite. For us, the most comparable place to Cairo that we’ve visited is Seoul: both are massive, very cheap, grey, horribly polluted, immensely dirty, with unbelievable traffic jams and really confusing to walk around. An associate of ours here argues that at least the Nile makes Cairo pretty. We retorted that one can only see the filthy Nile if you live by the river, and not anywhere else! However, none of these has come as a surprise, so there’s no culture shock or anything as yet. These are also the reasons why we’ve chosen to live near the city centre instead of the nicer, plusher feel of the suburbs miles out (where the air is definitely cleaner), as downtown is where all the action is, however hideous they might be. One thing we weren’t expecting though is seeing 90-95% of the women wearing a hijab or a niqab (just the eyes, and sometimes, just the glasses!); we were expecting 65-70% at most. Anyway, like 20 million others here, we are doing our best to cope admirably in the presence of merciless drivers, occasional power/water-cuts, lack of pavements and some of the worst food ever in the world.
Yes, unlike Seoul – where the food is superb – Cairo’s is beyond shit. we thought Havana (food shortage and ration books!) was bad but Cairo is seriously taking the piss. It’s easily the worst place that we’d ever been to for food. Now, some of you would have followed our travel entries over the years, and we can guarantee you that McDonald’s and Asian food do not figure prominently – if at all – on our itinerary even in the Third World. That’s because no matter how unpromising a place looks, there’re always a few tasty dishes to keep Bleungberg going. We once spent 21 days in lamb-loving Iran, and loved the food there by completely avoiding all lamb-related dishes. Likewise, Turkey – rubbish seafood, but nice veggie bean stews and gorgeous chicken dishes to neutralise the evil lamb kebabs. Six weeks in Central America – rice and peas (gallo pinto) everyday…mmm…loved it. And so, it is with great sadness to report that our first-ever meal in Cairo was spent….at McDonald’s (which was very nice, by the way). As was the third (less so). The fifth came at a Chinese restaurant called ‘Le Peking’, followed by a Japanese meal. So, you get the general picture here. For sure, we’ve found a few nice local specialties (koshory, stuffed pigeons, chicken kebabs, molokhiya) but on the whole, Cairo’s a cruel place. And we can’t even begin to tell you how horrible those Chinese and Japanese meals were. Texas in 1990 and Havana in 2008 were, until last week, the nadirs of Bleungberg lifelong experience of Chinese food (yes, we here at Bleungberg bear ‘food’ grudges). But ‘Le Peking’ has now beaten the disgusting ‘Tres Dragones’ in Havana’s Chinatown into last place. At ‘Le Peking’, the lowest point came when the Egyptian waiter(s) ‘lectured’ us on the sauces available: soya, chilli and sweet & sour. Sweet & sour?! There’s no such thing called sweet & sour as a dipping sauce! We were mildly outraged/bemused, but was later seething when we took a bite out of the single worst piece of tofu we’d ever, ever had in my life. It was powdered tofu!! POWDERED!? At a Chinese restaurant?! Yuk. As for the Japanese, we badly needed pork only for the Japanese owner to tell us that swine flu killed off their pork supply six months ago. So, unagi (Japanese grilled eel) it was, and we can guarantee you that we’ll probably never ever have another fillet of unagi that was as tough and as salty as this ever again. To sum up, these meals were so bad that we wouldn’t even feed them to a cockroach.
OK. Food-rant over. we had fish and chips at a pub tonight, so we’re happy. There are also fresh fruits everywhere, which is fantastic. But, thank goodness our office has a kitchen. However, that’s all for now. we love Cairo, really – grocery shopping trips at 3am have never been more fun, as is crossing the road. Just not so sure about the people here yet…..
The words ‘ulterior’ and ‘motives’ spring to mind.